Review of the Week 2008

Wonderful stay in Cairo

Great experience in Hue    (Hue accommodation)

Trying to get to your hotel through ankle deep water is a new experience for us. Hue had put on it's best rain storm to welcome us and there was water everywhere. At times the rain was so heavy you could just see the other side of the road. We hailed a cyclo and were cocooned under a sheet of clear plastic as we raced through the flooded street, our poor driver soaked through. On arrival in Vietnam two weeks earlier we had recoiled from the idea of using cyclos, one human transporting another. But we noticed that the passengers weren't Western tourists, they were locals. And our guide in Saigon explained that if no one used the cyclos then there would be thousands of drivers who wouldn't be able to support themselves. When we were delivered to our hotel we paid the driver double of what he asked which was $2. He was happy and our conscience clear.    More ...    (18 Nov 2008)

Fabulous location    (Monemvasia accommodation)

Monemvasia is a small village on the east coast of the Peloponnese Peninsula and was one of our favourite places on our car tour of this area. My wife's father originally came from the Peloponnese so we sent to see the area that he keeps talking about. It's a fascinating place far from the tourists of Athens and the islands. And seemingly scattered at random is the built legacy of the Byzantine Empire – churches, forts, villages – simply wonderful stuff.

The Monemvasia Rock is in fact an island linked to the mainland by a narrow causeway, not unlike Mont St Michel in Normandy, France. Here they built a fortified town with castle on the only area possible – the rest of the island is too steep. It's a magic place of narrow winding paths, mysterious gates, ancient houses and at every turning you're rewarded with a stunning view of the castle or the sea.     More ...    (28 Oct  2008)

A beauty    (Whitstable accommodation)

Some years ago I asked my mechanic if he could recommend a good car for me and his recommendation was a particular model that was universally regarded as being hideously ugly. Yes, he replied, it's not pretty but that means it's very cheap second-hand car and its mechanicals are great. Nothing goes wrong with it. Besides, you can't see how ugly it is when you're driving it! I had that car for five years and it was – as he said – very reliable and cheap to run. Even its bland exterior grew on me with time.

So, why am I telling you about a car when reviewing a B&B? Well, the Pearl Fisher B&B – despite its lovely name – is just a bit bland and boring-looking from the outside. But once through the front door it's a beauty.    More ...    (07 Oct 08) 

Good advice    (Sintra accommodation)

Quinta do Scoto is a building dating from the 1700s, beautifully restored by its current owners Tony and Penny. In fact so impressed were they with the builder's fine effort of restoration they named one of the suites after him - Sr. Miguel. The attention to detail and fine craftsmanship is such that you don't often see these days. Particularly impressive is that the owners resisted advice to divide the space into more (smaller) rooms, instead taking the no-compromise route of retaining a feeling of spaciousness. Both the house and the barn have had Sr. Miguel's treatment – we stayed in the barn with its high ceilings, fabulous views and direct access to the pool. They have one of the best websites we've seen which gives information and floor plans of each of the nine rooms/suites.    More ...   (16 Sept 2008)

Going for gold    (Vancouver accommodation)

There's no doubt in my mind that the place to stay while watching the Winter Olympics in 2010 will be the Pan Pacific hotel in Vancouver. So if you're thinking about visiting Vancouver anytime soon, or for the Olympics and want a top class hotel, the Pan Pacific Vancouver must surely be on your list. The games will be spread between Vancouver (ice hockey, skating etc) and Whistler (downhill skiing etc) so it would be very clever if Pan Pacific packaged a deal with its Vancouver hotel and the two it has at Whistler. We didn't get to Whistler this trip but I hear that the hotels are all of high standard.    More ...    (26 Aug 2008)

Visiting the folks    (Bury St Edmunds accommodation)

I'd like to tell you about Norwich and the wonderful fishing ports we found along the coast but fact is we got stuck in Bury St E. This is partly because we found a lovely farmhouse B&B (Apple Mount Farmhouse) that seduced us so we stayed the two nights there and partly because this area is so fascinating we spent all our time exploring close by. Bury St Edmunds is named for the Saxon King Edmund who is buried here and the whole area is an historian's delight. The abbey ruins are of note as is West Stow just north of Bury St E where there's a reconstructed Anglo/Saxon farming settlement.

For those interested in historic buildings the National Trust Ickworth House is a knock out. The park-like grounds designed by Capability Brown do the buildings justice. Easy to spend a whole day here!    More ...    (19 Aug 2008)

Le Tour magnifique    (Travel Tale)

Bernard is a tall Frenchman who would seem right at home in the finance houses of Paris with his YSL shirts, handmade boots and spotless moleskins. In fact he's the genial farmer who is letting us camp on the side of his field near Apt in Vaucluse to watch the Tour de France. There aren't a lot of places to park a 7.5 metre motor home and we were lucky to find a picturesque spot overlooking Bernard's vineyards and sunflowers. There are eight other motor homes parked nose to tail along this stretch which is one of the few open areas around.    More ...    (05 Aug 2008)

Great Cambridge experience    (Cambridge accommodation)

It had been some time since we visited Cambridge and we had no desire to return to the hotel we stayed in then. I kept expecting Basil Fawlty to confront me at breakfast – "You ordered eggs and you got what? Porridge! What's wrong with porridge? Good enough for the Scots!" I eventually got my eggs but not without some grief, and not that they were worth waiting for. Perhaps I was being fussy and porridge was the house specialty? Maybe chef was Scottish?

This time we had a far more enjoyable experience at Worth House, a worthy B&B just east of the city centre.     More ...    (22 July 2008) 

Don't miss it    (Cordoba accommodation)

The historic centre of Cordoba is a UNESCO World Heritage site which is one of the reasons we visited on a recent trip through Spain. Founded by the Romans the city came under Arabic control in the tenth century when it became the largest city in Europe with an estimated half million residents. This gives you some idea of the significance of the place, but more importantly it provides a rich legacy of architectural and cultural gems. Perhaps the best known – and most beautiful – is the Mezquita, a mosque which dates back to 784, now used as a Catholic cathedral.    More ...     (15 July 2008)

Memorable stay    (Bridport accommodation)

Lyme Bay in Dorset is justly famous for many reasons, not the least being the fossils found all along the coast – sometimes called the Jurassic Coast. You might recall that wonderful film The French Lieutenant's Woman in which the Jeremy Irons character divides his time between looking for fossils and being obsessive about Meryl Streep. Visit Lyme Regis on a stormy day and look out to the Cobb and tell me if you don't recall a hooded Meryl Streep standing at the end, lashed by wind and spray.

Since 1997 this area has also become well known through the River Cottage television series which sees Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall escape to the coast and an alternative lifestyle. It's worth visiting River Cottage (which isn't located at the original cottage anymore but still goes by the same name) for one of their Friday evening specials.    More ...    (08 July 2008)

Perfect in Pradesh    (Shimla accommodation)

You need to watch out for the cheeky monkeys here but otherwise everything else is perfect. We arrived at Chandigarh from where it takes about four hours by car on some hair-raising roads – if we did it again we'd take a transfer flight to the small airstrip close to the hotel. The hotel is typical Oberoi, that is nothing is left to chance. Staff is highly trained, helpful and personable, everything is perfectly clean and rooms are beautifully decorated. 

One day we took the Toy Train to Shimla which is an experience but it is also hot, crowded, uncomfortable and slow. It's one of those things you do only once and not at all if you're a little frail.    More ...    (01 July 2008)

Stunning    (Queenstown accommodation)

For our anniversary my husband promised to take me to the snow. 20 years ago we met skiing at Mt Hotham in Victoria so it seemed a very romantic thing to do (he has his moments!). Problem is that the Australian ski fields are getting more and more patchy with global warming so it could mean that we'd spend a few days trudging around muddy ski slopes looking for the illusive white stuff. Not to worry, we're heading for New Zealand he told me. Passport valid, is it?

With cheap flights from Sydney to New Zealand it's not uncommon for Aussies to fly to NZ for a week's skiing. I'd heard people come back raving about the snow – perfect dry powder. But more than good snow – and there was plenty of that – what I recall from our stay is the amazing lodge called Azur where we stayed.    More ...    (29 July 2008)

The best part    (Genoa accommodation)

After our cruise returned to Genoa we had two days at a B&B called Il Salotto di Lucilla. Interestingly this turned out to be the highlight of our vacation. I always imagined Genoa would be an ugly industrial port city but it has a charm all it own. Certainly it is a major port on the Mediterranean and has a long history of maritime trade which continues to this day with both container shipping and passenger ferries and cruise ships. We spent a very pleasant afternoon wandering around the docks just observing the shipping.

On the eastern side of the city we also enjoyed the area known as Boccadasse (see photo) which is a delightful neighbourhood overlooking the sea.    More ...    (13 Aug 2008)

Cambodian oasis

We emerged from the jungle (literally) to find this hotel an oasis in the middle of Cambodia. After starting out in Thailand our trip took us from Chiang Mai in the north, overland to the Lao border where we started our boat trip down the Mekong. An absolutely stunning trip which ended at Siem Reap where we were booked into La Residence d'Angkor.

This is a small and intimate hotel wrapped around a large salt-water pool. The building reminded me more than a little of some of the pagodas with their lovely reflective pools. Now operated by Orient-Express Hotels who have refurbished the older part of the building into a cosy and luxurious hotel with an emphasis on Cambodian hospitality and décor. Lots of wood, stone and plantation shutters set the scene.     More ...    (09 Sept 2008)

Heidelberg highlight    (Heidelberg accommodation)

This hotel is about 5 km from Heidelberg and close to Schwetzingen - and despite this proximity Kurpfalzhof remains a charming rural village. Which is one of the things that make this hotel so good. Why stay in a city hotel with their tiny rooms and infernal sealed windows when you can stay at Hotel Garni Kurpfalzhof, surrounded by fields and forests? Parking is free, so too internet, so too breakfast. €95 will get you a spacious apartment with bedroom, ensuite, sitting room and kitchenette. A double room costs a lot less.

Schloss Schwetzingen is close by and worthy of a full day to explore the buildings and marvellous gardens – gates open at 9.00 and the guided tour at €6 is not to be missed. And just up the road in the other direction – best accessed by local bus – is old Heidelberg. This is on the southern side of the Neckar river and is overlooked by the ruins of the Heidelberg Castle. We spent an enjoyable two days wandering through this area with guide book at hand, taking time to relax and refresh often at the many charming pubs and cafes.    More...    (30 Sept 2008)

Wonderful & posh    (Paris accommodation)

When my aunt sold her house to move into an apartment she gave us some money with the instructions that it wasn't to be used for anything practical such as a new sofa or a plumbing upgrade. It was for the sole purpose of travelling to Paris and staying somewhere "posh". Edith has always loved travel and said of Paris, "It's impossible not to be jealous of the French with a city as beautiful as that!" Now at 87 her wandering is restricted to places closer to home but she wanted to be in Paris with us "in spirit".

It had been twenty years since my first and last visit when I'd stayed at some dim and squalid hotel in Montmartre which a lot of other young people without much money. It was cheap, close to the seedy red-light district and we loved it. Things change. This time we stayed near the Arch de Triomphe at a wonderful hotel called Jays. The Champs Elysées, Trocadero and Eiffel Tower are all within an easy walk and there are all public transport options within a few minutes.    More ...     (21 Oct 2008)

Return visit    (Madrid accommodation)

The first time I visited Spain was in 1967 on some school exchange program where it was thought a good idea for English boys to have a taste of Spain. We stayed in the homes of children our own age (16) for two weeks, who, in turn stayed with us in England. Looking back at it now it seems an unfair deal, for I got to stay in a great rambling stone house right in the middle of Madrid whereas poor Javier got to occupy the guest room in our bungalow in Leeds.

Javier's father was a lawyer who's real passion was painting. He must have been rather good at it as years later he gave up law for the paint brush. I recall my first meal with the family, taken at the stomach shrinking time of 9 pm. Back home you could set the clock by Mum serving dinner at 6. Wine was served which I thought very civilised and afterwards we sat in the courtyard smoking cigarettes. All of which seemed quite routine for a Spanish family back then but wildly bohemian for a boy from Leeds.     More ...    (11 Nov 2008)

Florence alternative    (Florence accommodation)

Florence is a must for any visitor to Italy. With its fabulous legacy of architecture and culture you can spend days just seeing the highlights. The Uffizi Gallery and Duomo are first on the list but you'll soon learn that you're not the only one who wants to visit. Queues to both these sites can take a couple of hours so be prepared to spend at least half a day on each. Book ahead if you can and a good hotel concierge will know how to minimize your wait.

The problem with Florence is that in summer it can get hot, gritty, crowded and overwhelming. During our visit the crowds in the streets spoke every language but Italian, or so it seemed. Restaurants were crowded, food mediocre and service abysmal. Visit outside the popular months of June, July and August if you can but if not do what we did and stay outside the city. This will not only save you a great deal of Euro, you'll be able to escape the crowds and find a friendly B&B in the bargain.    More ...    (24 June 2008)  

New benchmark    (Guangzhou accommodation)

On my first visit to this city many years ago we stayed in a single storey hotel from the 60s. It had typical Chinese furniture and was built for the senior comrades when they came visiting. I wouldn't have been surprised to have been woken by a bell at 5.00 am and marched out for morning callisthenics. Food was an interesting mix that was often unidentifiable – probably best not to know. I recall my travelling companion of those days asking if she might have a "western breakfast". A plate containing a slice of toast on which sat a soft-cooked egg and a meat ball was presented with great ceremony. We stuck with the traditional pork dumplings after that.    More ...    (16 June 2008)

19th hole    (St Andrews accommodation)

This is golf nirvana! Everything here is about golf and it's fascinating to sit in the bar listening to other golfers' tales and immerse yourself in golf history. Of course, St Andrews is where the game began. The exact date it started no one knows but way back in 1457 golf was forbidden by an Act of Parliament. Good old Scots, they obviously didn't want anyone to have too much fun. It wasn't until 1502 when James IV bought his first set of clubs that the game achieved some respectability. And as they say, someone's been bashing a golf ball around these green pastures ever since.   More ...    (09 June 2008)  

Like Italy used to be    (Lipari accommodation)

 "Never heard of it!" is the common response when telling people where we went. Lipari is the largest of the Aeolian Islands just north of Sicily, and the name of the island's main town. Friends had visited there on their Mediterranean odyssey two years ago and described it in ways that set us thinking that we should visit. "Mainly fishing and farming with some tourism in the summer. Like Italy used to be!"

There a regular ferries and hydrofoils departing from Milazzo on Sicily and the trip across takes about an hour by hydrofoil. It's a stunning trip so don't be tempted to rush it – the slower ferries are good if you've got the time.    More ...    (02 June 2008)

Turned out well in the end    (Patras accommodation)

Things didn't start well for us on arrival at Patras. We parked near the port to take a look at the boats and grab some lunch before heading south on the E55. When we returned the car had been broken into. We never leave anything of value on display when we travel but realized that we'd left a shopping bag with some sandals inside on the back seat. – enough to temp someone to smash the back window and grab the bag thinking that something inside may be valuable. We found the bag and John's old sandals tossed under a car close by.    More ...    (26 May  2008)

Just the place    (Bristol accommodation)

East Harptree is the sort of village that I could happily retire to. I have in mind a small holding with an adequate orchard that would allow me plenty of cider apples for my home brew, some chickens for my daily eggs, and maybe a pig or two. It would have to be within walking distance to the pub – not too close or the temptation may prove too great, but close enough that I could still manage it in my dotage. I fancy I would develop some eccentric habits such as wearing a funny hat and leading a pet duck on my daily walks.    More ...    (19 May 2008)

Delight in New Mexico    (Albuquerque accommodation)

Set in 25 acres of land with 6 acres of formal gardens and walkways this inn is wonderful. It's part of a working farm with fields of lavender and organic vegetables, horses, chickens and peacocks. The farm, house and outbuildings are simply enchanting. Built in the 1930s Los Poblanos Inn is a truly relaxing place to stay.

Just wandering around this organic farm which strives to be as green as possible inspired me to make more of an effort to be environmentally aware. In fact it inspired me to move to New Mexico and start an organic lavender farm (which will never happen).   More ...    (12 May 2008)

Perfect Loire Valley B&B    (Amboise accommodation)

Then there is the most impressive collection of chateaux anywhere in France: Chateau de Chenonceau, Chateau de Chambord and the delightful Chateau d'Azay-le-Rideau to mention just a few. There are so many things to see 12 days was not nearly long enough. We will return and when we do will base ourselves in Amboise which is a delightful historic town on the river and is central to most places.

The real wonder is that just a few minutes from the town centre is a fabulous B&B called Manoir de La Maison Blanche, a sprawling 17th century country manor now offering comfortable accommodation. Run by the charming and irrepressible Mme Annick and her two daughters this is one of those rare places that exceed all your expectations. The manor sits in peaceful isolation surrounded by 10 acres of private parkland and yet is an easy walk to town (15 mins).    More ...    (5 May 2008)

Right in Petite France    (Strasbourg accommodation)

The hotel allows smoking in some areas and permits dogs which is not uncommon in France. The French have a totally different view on this than in the States and it's their country so …. But the smell of stale tobacco smoke is a real put-off for me. I'm none too happy with the thought that Fido or Gigi may have slept on the sofa either. Despite those concerns the Regent Petite France is a fine place to stay in a wonderful part of France.    More ...    (28  Apr 2008)

Home in HCMC   (Ho Chi Minh City accommodation)

Every visitor to Ho Chi Minh City needs learns the art of crossing the road sooner or later. Sounds silly I know but the roads here are more like constant flowing rivers of motor-scooters. Finding a pedestrian crossing and waiting for the traffic to stop is an exercise in futility. You actually wonder why they bother to paint white lines on the road at all. The rule is that motor-scooters only give way to trucks and official cars carrying the comrades.

So, stand on the side of the road, try to find some sort of gap to start with and walk across. Don't run or change you pace, just a nice, purposeful walk. The riders calculate your pace and glide around you with centimetres to spare – change your pace and your life is in peril.   More ...    (21 Apr 2008)

Bella Cellini    (Rome accommodation)

Trying to locate the lost luggage counter in a strange airport in a foreign language did nothing to lighten my mood. Finally after another hour of standing in line we reached the counter where an overworked clerk emitted a sound that may have been a word or may have been him clearing his throat. My partner asked helpfully "Parlez Anglaise?" Asking an Italian in French if he could speak English! The throat sound came again and this time I understood, "Heathrow?" And of course this was why so many English were lined up, looking for bags that were still sitting in a big heap back at the new Heathrow terminal.

Paris, I said thinking that there may be hope yet. The clerk shrugged his shoulders, pushed a form towards me and seemed to indicate that we should first proceed to the closest church and pray long and hard.    More ...    (14 Apr 2008)

Hidden delight    (Perpignan accommodation)

Driving from Spain to France we planned a stop at Perpignan for no reason other than it was on the way. What good fortune we did. Perpignan is one of those places that are not on the tourist radar but you know they will be soon. It has much to offer we were surprised our guide book didn't make more of it. Consider that through some quirk of history this town was owned by the Counts of Barcelona in the 12th century and is still the second largest Catalan town after Barcelona. There are many similarities and it feels more Spanish than French.

Close by are beaches and mountains so Perpignan could well be a destination in its own right, particularly if it was given a tidy up.

We're probably agreeably biased towards this town because it's where we spent the best nights of the trip – at the wonderful Chateau La Tour Apollinaire.    More ...    (07 Apr 2008)

Paradise found    (Saint Lucia accommodation)

If you're considering a visit to the Caribbean my advice is try St. Lucia which was truly wonderful. We stayed at Marigot Bay at a place called Nature's Paradise. With a name like that I thought we'd be in for a disappointment. How many times have you looked at a place with a name like Beachfront Hotel only to find it a couple blocks back from the beach, or the Harbour View where the only view is from the rooftop? Nature's Paradise? Yeah, sure! I've obviously become too cynical as this place is pretty much what it says on the wrapper.

Surrounded by fabulous colourful gardens on a hilltop overlooking Marigot Bay and the Caribbean Sea Nature's Paradise has the best location on the island. Your first sunset sipping a long tropical cocktail will banish any lingering cynicism.     More ...    (31 Mar 2008)

Old town wonder    (Marbella accommodation)

When the maximum temperature struggles to get into positive territory Celsius it's time for a little Spanish. Hola! Trouble is that every other poor, freezing Brit has the same idea and for some daft reason they all want to go to the same place. Did you see the TV series A place in Spain where we witnessed the saga of Lee and his long-suffering partner Cheryl looking for somewhere to buy around Marbella? The problem is that these are exactly the kind of people you are hoping to escape while you enjoy a thaw-out in Spain.

Don't be put off. Forget the coast and consider staying in the old historic town section of Marbella where Lee would have no hope parking his caravan. While only about 10 minutes to the beach the typical tourist isn't so interested in history or architecture – they want to be able to smell the sea from their balcony.    More ...   (25 Mar 2008)

Gotta get back    (Santorini accommodation)

There is something remarkable happening in our house at the moment. This is the time of year that we sit down and decide where we'll spend our annual holidays, usually taken in September. It's a time of cajoling, debating and arguing one's case as to where we want to go. He likes cities (Paris and Barcelona in particular) and I like somewhere quiet and close to the sea. Last year we spent three weeks in Greece with several days at Oia on Santorini. My choice.

This year what's so remarkable is that we've both agreed on a destination, and even more remarkable is that we've decided to return to Santorini. The fact is that we fell in love with Oia and a fabulous little hotel called Ikies. Ikies Traditional Houses to give it its full title. This is the most amazing collection of houses and rooms perched on the side of the cliff overlooking the village and the ocean.     More ...    (17 Mar 2008)

Just like home    (Bangkok accommodation) 

After two weeks in Cambodia and Loas a return to Bangkok seems like home. The electricity works, water issues from the shower when you turn the tap, there are even some English channels on TV! We just had time for a meal and then an early night to catch up on sleep we'd lost due to energetic roosters at nearly every place we'd stayed. Thankfully the beds at Baan Sukhumvit Inn are huge, deep and marvellously comfortable. The linen is crisp and clean and the room spotless.

The next morning we enjoyed a massage to easy away the aches and pains that come from sitting on wooden seats and sleeping on bamboo floors. Yes, a great experience but one that this body hasn't learnt to adapt to. My knees creaked, my neck seemed misaligned and even my ribs ached. No matter, an hour of wonderful Thai massage and all was set right.     More ...    (10 Mar 2008)

Worth the trip alone    (Venice accommodation)

My first visit to Venice 10 years ago didn't leave a good impression. There was a surge tide and part of the city was underwater and there was a distinct smell of sewage. Hardly what I had in mind for a visit with my new bride. After a long absence I was persuaded to return by my wife who likes all things Italian; particularly Venezia.

Interesting how our ideas change. This time I loved the place. Being able to get around without getting wet helped, and the canals smelling of water rather than sewage was a good start. But is it possible that the people had changed as well?    More ...    (03 Mar 2008)

Something different    (Yucatan accommodation)

You get some idea that the Luz En Yucatan is different when you look at the website. Go to the Rates page and you'll find this gem: "Our manager/co-owner, Ms. Parmet, is an amusing, but odd, woman. Her needs and expenditures are neither modest nor extreme. In developing our rates, we have factored in these needs, as we have found that Ms. Parmet will become cranky, contentious, and disruptive, if they are not met. (We work tirelessly at meeting our goal of "Peace, above all else, Peace.")

Apart from engendering decidedly unpleasant moods, the inability to generate sufficient funds as a hotelier forces Ms. Parmet to return to work as a nurse. Having her inflict her (faltering) skills on an unsuspecting and undeserving public... perhaps, even, you, or a loved one... is something we cannot (nor should you) allow to happen."     More ...    (25 Feb 2008)

Two homes    (Travel Tale)

We returned to Western Australian for three weeks during the Christmas break and stepped off the plane into the glorious warmth of Perth. My brother took us back to his place where we showered and changed and then announced it was time for the beach. What better way to throw off the effects of 25 hours in transit? The beach with its attendant rituals of beach cricket followed by a long swim in the ocean is nearly a religion with my family - Sundays were not for dressing up and going to church, rather for dressing down and heading for the beach.

With our two year posting to England half over it's interesting to return to Perth and notice the changes. And there are so many changes.    More ...    (18 Feb 2008)

The pipes are calling    (Edinburgh accommodation)

The clans are gathering next year to celebrate the 250th anniversary of the birth of the great Scottish poet Robert Burns. Amongst other pieces Burns gave us is 'Auld Lang Syne' which everyone must have sung at one time or other to welcome in a new year. The Scottish events people are using this anniversary to launch the Homecoming Scotland programme which will encompass a series of events throughout 2009. The idea is to get all those adventurous Scots that have settled elsewhere to come 'home' to Scotland for a grand knees up. (See www.homecomingscotland.com for details)

We learnt all this while visiting Scotland in January and it sounds like it will be a great year to return.    More ...    (11 Feb 2008

Winter treat    (Harrowgate accommodation)

Friends of ours thought us mad when we said that we were spending a week in Yorkshire - in winter. And yet in many ways this is a great time to visit. It's also particularly good if you're adverse to crowds and streets full of dawdling families wandering aimlessly. We'd only visited Harrogate once previously and found it a delightful town but too full by half in summer so here we were.

This is why you visit in winter. The other reason is to see the Yorkshire Dales in all its stark winter glory. It really is stunning but there were times we were happy to have a four wheel drive so if you're looking for an outing in the Fiesta this may not be the time of year for you.   More ...    (04 Feb 2008)

More than picturesque    (Barga accommodation)

We were staying in Lucca in Tuscany which is a nice enough town set in the middle of some boring flat countryside. It was here that we visited the tourist office and found a brochure on the town of Barga, which was described as "more than picturesque" and as "attracting only the discerning". Such colourful language no doubt arises from a dubious translation but the photos of this ancient town perched above the Serchio River were compelling. It was just 37 km away from Lucca so we jumped in the car and headed to Barga to take a look for ourselves.

Driving out on the SS12 we followed the river north and before long left the flat lands and entered a valley that wound through the mountains. Picturesque towns and villages followed the river and we took our time exploring some of these as we went, arriving at Barga just in time for lunch. If the other towns were picturesque, this was the gem of them – so perhaps the poetic description of the brochure was accurate.    More ...     (28 Jan 2008)

Something new    (Sifnos accommodation)

This being our third visit to the Greek Islands we remembered the scourge of past hotels being the incessant buzz of motor scooters outside our window. These machines are a real menace! New to Sifnos we made sure that the hotel we chose was off the track and certainly away from the waterfront. The Petani Village Hotel fulfilled this criteria and although we could still hear the buzz it was far enough away to be of no matter.
The hotel sprawls along the hillside above Apollonia which is five minutes walk downhill (double that for the return uphill trip). The port and beaches are 15 minutes drive and if staying here I'd recommend hiring a car on arrival. You can get one of the little cars cheap and the freedom and access to the 15 km long island is worth the effort.    More ...   (21 Jan 2008)

Happy is the man in a kilt    (Dumfries accommodation)

In true Scottish style the laird of Ferintosh Guest House greets his guests in kilt and if you arrive wearing the same you receive a complimentary dram of his finest single malt whisky. Well, maybe not his finest but who's to quibble. Next visit I'll try to pass muster with my wife's checked dressy thing and see how I go. My feeling is that Robertson will be sporting enough to go for it! Don't worry if you're not into kilts as there will be a tot of the amber stuff waiting in your room each evening.

That said, the Ferintosh is a friendly and slightly eccentric place which suited us fine. There are six comfortable and spotless rooms (some ensuite, some not) in the lovely old Victorian building. Breakfast is a wonderful array and the good thing is that the breakfast room is open all day for any guest who may want to use it. For those who've never tried haggis this is the chance – one that I passed on due to a delicate tummy.     More ...    (14 Jan 2008)

Good find in Lecce    (Lecce accommodation)

My lovely neighbours Tina and Tony suggested we visit Lecce when they heard we were taking a holiday in Italy. No, not suggested – insisted. Tony arrived in Melbourne, Australia from Lecce at the age of two so you'd think his connection to his birthplace would be tenuous at best. However, living as I do in an area that is home to many Italians (the local shopping street is called Little Italy) I've come to realize that there is no nation more proud of its roots than Italy. It doesn't matter if they live in New York, London or indeed Melbourne, Italians remain resolutely Italian in all things. The best food? Italian! Best cars? Italian! Most beautiful place? (Insert home town), Italy! Most beautiful women? Don't even ask!    More ...    (07 Jan 2008)